Delos & Mykanos in the Cycladic Islands

Delos

Delos is known as the birthplace of Apollo and his sister Artemis, but it has been an important spiritual center since the third millennium B.C. It is an uninhabited (except for some working French archaeologists) island overflowing with the ruins of Greek, Roman and Egyptian temples to the gods. You can only arrange a day visit, as there are no hotels on the island. We took a boat out of Paros, spending time on Delos and on Mykonos. As you exit the boat, you’ll find a cadre of official tour guides speaking the major languages willing to assist you for a slight charge. Since Patrick, my husband, is a photographer, we chose to wander the island by ourselves. Following are some of his pictures. I’ll let them speak for themselves.

A Temple in Ruins, Delos

A temple in ruins, Delos Greece (Photo by P. Corkery)

The Terrace of the Lions in Delos

The Terrace of the Lions in Delos, Greece (Photo by P. Corkery)

Wildflowers on Delos

Wildflowers on Delos, Greece (Photo by P. Corkery)

Delos, Greece

The Inscription Reads Sacred Lake in Greek and French – Delos, Greece (Photo by P. Corkery)

Temple Ruin at Delos (Photo by P. Corkery)

Mykonos

Mykonos is known as the party island of the Cyclades and attracts celebrities and young people from around the world. We only spent a few hours here.

Petros the Pelican of Mykanos (Photo by P. Corery)

Petros the pelican is the mascot of Mykonos. He’ll pose for pictures as he walks around the town. There is always a second Petros being groomed to take over when the other becomes too old.

The Port/Beach at Mykanos (Photo by P. Corkery)

Easter on Paros

The Streets of Parikia at Easter

The Streets of Parikia at Easter

Following is my Podcast on Easter in Greece. Click and Enjoy!

Every church bell on the island of Paros tolls the Resurrection. The ships in port blare their horns as fireworks light up the sky over the sea. It’s midnight, Easter Sunday morning in Greece and the narrow streets of Parikia, the capital of Paros, are teaming with people. Christos Anesti (Christ is Risen) is the standard greeting answered with Alithos Anesti (Truly He is).

Earlier in the day we had each been given an unlit ribbon-adorned candle as we exited the small commuter plane from Athens. Upon checking into our room over looking the square of Parikia we found two more candles.

Later that night through our open window we heard a deep male voice chanting in Greek. Mesmerized we joined the throngs in the narrow streets winding towards the Panagia Ekatonapyliani, or Church of 100 Doors. This church was founded by Alexander’s mother, Helen, and built by him in 328. It’s the last standing church in Greece built in the Byzantine style. The legend states that only 99 doors have been found, but when the 100th one is uncovered, Istanbul will once again be called Constantinople and ruled by Greece. As we followed behind, we saw old friends and family members greeting each other with joyful voices. Many kisses and hugs were exchanged. We were told later that Easter is the most important religious holiday in Greece, and that family members scattered throughout Greece and Europe will travel to be home at this time. We sat on a bench in front of an old church listening to the chanting from within, happy voices outside, with many people coming and going. As it neared midnight we went off in search of our daughter Kat and her friends. And then the bells began. There was no fear of waking sleeping children, as the whole town, indeed the entire island population was out. As we neared a smaller Church, we saw the priests outside with the congregation around them. A few came up to light their long tapers, and as they began walking through the streets they would stop to light other’s candles. Greeting each other with Christos Anesti.

The streets were soon alive with happy voices and bobbing candlelight. Many families gathered after the services to break their fast with a soup made from the inner organs of the lamb to be roasted the next day, while we headed back for some sleep.

Sunday afternoon we joined a mixed group of local Greeks and other nationalities sharing a large table at Magaya, a beach taverna, for a day of eating, drinking, and celebrating. All over Greece goats and lambs had been roasting, and it was no different here. The aroma filled the air. The wine flowed freely and plates were heaped high. We felt very blessed to share the day and have this “backdoor” experience within the Greek culture.

Paros & Santorini in the Cycladic Islands

Greek Flag Flying from the back of a Blue Star Ferry

Greek Flag Flying from the back of a Blue Star Ferry (Photo by P. Corkery)

The Cycladic Islands are a group of 220 islands in the Aegean Sea southeast of mainland Greece. This blog post features Paros and Santorini. Because of the economic situation in Greece, it’s a good time to visit and get the most for your dollar. The Euro is lower than it has been for years, and there are good deals to be found. I think you’ll find our pictures enough to lure you.

Many have asked me about eating and drinking in the Greek Isles and all I can answer is, YES! I prefer to dine at the various tavernas that line the shore. They are usually family run and will treat you like one of the family as soon as you sit. The olive oil is often from a family farm, the feta will be fresh and made on the island and the produce grown nearby. Plates are often set in the middle of the table to be shared with others. The wines are almost always from Greek wineries, stored in wooden kegs and served to you in a chilled metal pitcher to insure that even on the warmest days your white wine will be cool. If you’re a beer drinker I recommend Mythos or Alpha, two very nice Greek beers.

The most interesting way to travel to these islands is from a ferry out of Athens, but if you are short of time you can fly inexpensively through Aegean Air on a small commuter plane.

A note of caution about bathroom facilities on the islands. The plumbing is smaller than American standards, and for that reason toilet paper must not be flushed. A small covered trashcan is kept next to the toilet to drop your wrapped up used paper in and is disposed of daily. After a week of this I like to reward myself with a stay at a luxury hotel in Athens just for the bathroom.

Paros

Church of 100 Doors (Photo by P. Corkery)

Paros is a beautiful island of beaches, archaeological ruins and former marble mines. It’s also the ferry hub for the Cyclades. Parikia is the capital of the small island. We have stayed at a small family run pension called the Argonauta. The Argonauta is a short stroll from the port where the ferries dock and at the entrance to the old town. In the morning the aroma from the bakery across the street insures that you’ll wake up with an appetite, and the breakfast the hotel serves will more than fill the bill. We stayed for five nights over Easter 2014, our fourth stay in the past ten years. With each stay we fall more in love with this small hotel. The rooms are up a marble staircase, surrounding a roof garden. It’s a pleasant place to sit and read or share a bottle of wine and chat with family and friends. The lobby is spacious and gives you the feeling of sitting in a traditional Cycladic style living room. Our room had a balcony overlooking the square where we could watch the comings and goings from the port, a refrigerator tucked into the armoire and a bed so comfortable I hated getting up in the mornings. This is not a big American chain hotel but a truly authentic Greek island home away from home. The family that owns the Argonauta has always responded to every question and request quickly and most helpfully. Their warmth is part of what keeps us returning to Paros.

The Lobby of the Argonauta (Photo by M. Corkery)

Octopus Drying in the Sun (Photo by M. Corkery)

The Beach at Magaya in the Evening (Photo by P. Corkery)

The Beach at Magaya in the Evening (Photo by P. Corkery)

In the center of Paros, Lefkes (Photo by P. Corkery)

In the center of Paros, the Town of Lefkes (Photo by P. Corkery)

Santorini

Santorini is possibly the most beautiful place on Earth. It is what remains after a large volcanic eruption destroyed an earlier civilization and is largely carved out of the caldera.

I would recommend that anyone visiting stay in Oia, as it has the most amazing views. You can choose between donkeys or steps to maneuver the steep inclines, just as breathtaking as the view.

A Panorama of Oia

A Panorama of Oia (Photo by P. Corkery)

Another View from Santorini

Another View from Santorini (Photo by P. Corkery)

Oia, Santorini (Photo by P. Corkery)

Oia, Santorini (Photo by P. Corkery)

Looking Down from our Terrace

Looking Down from our Terrace (Photo by M. Corkery)

View from our Terrace in Fira, Santorini

View from our Terrace in Fira, Santorini at Sunset (Photo by M. Corkery)

Another View from Oia, Santorini (Photo by M. Corkery)

Another View from Oia, Santorini (Photo by M. Corkery)