If you’re going to Turkey, don’t stop at Istanbul. We hopped a flight on Pegasus Air and for less than $100 round trip flew into Izmir to begin our adventure. Ephesus is of Greek origin that later came under Roman influence before being taken over by the Turks in the 14^th century. It was once a huge trade center of the ancient world. The temple to Artemis was located in Ephesus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, but it eventually became a strong seat for Christian worship. St. John established the first Christian community, and St. Paul spent some years preaching and gaining converts among the Ephesians. The port became silted in through the years and the magnificent buildings are now ruins much beloved by tourists from all over the world.

Where to Stay

Most travelers choose between Kusadasi and Selcuk when planning their journey. Kusadasi is a resort town on the Aegean coast where cruise ships dock, and it is about a 30 minute drive to Ephesus. Selcuk is only about two minutes away from Ephesus. Since we were traveling in April, and it was still too cold to enjoy the sea breezes, we decided to stay in Selcuk.

Once Selcuk had been decided on I began researching hotels. You’re not going to find American style hotels in Selcuk, but you will find charming family run pensions. After looking at the various reviews we chose the Hotel Nazar. The Nazar is in the town center. They also offer a transfer service from the airport in Izmir. They are also only a short walk from St. John’s Basilica. Staying at Hotel Nazar provided us with the personal experience you always hope to find, but seldom do. Ilker, the owner, met us at the airport in Izmir and chatted with us until his father, a charming man of Greek heritage, drove us to Selcuk, where we were greeted by the owner’s mother in law, a lovely French woman. We had the most amazing dinner of our three-week vacation that evening on the rooftop restaurant, a traditional Turkish meal cooked by one of the local women. 

We were the only guests that night and reveled in their undivided attention. Breakfast is also served on the rooftop terrace. Every morning we were served fresh juice, tea, an assortment of cheeses, fruit, yogurt and bread.

The hotel arranged a taxi driver, Tolga, to pick us up the next day. He drove us to the House of the Virgin Mary, where he waited for us, and then to the upper gate of Ephesus. We met him three hours later at the bottom gate, drove us all around, and regaled us with stories, histories, and myths, all for the equivalent of $50 U.S. dollars.
Hotel Nazar is a traditional Turkish abode, beautifully decorated, spacious, charming, and delightful. Everyone at the hotel were warm and welcoming. They seemed eager to get to know us and make sure our stay in Selcuk was a top experience. And, it was. I would definitely stay here if and when I return.

Travel to From and Within

We flew Pegasus Air out of Istanbul to Izmir, the nearest airport to Ephesus. The flight lasted less than an hour and was easy for two non Turkish-speaking visitors to manage. Ephesus is about an hour away by road, and public transportation is available. Turkey also has a system of small busses called dolmas. They are marked with their destination, reasonably priced, and take off once they are filled. The majority of signs are written in Turkish and English, which makes finding your way around easy.

Must Sees

St. John’s Basilica was built in the 6th century by the Emperor Justinian. It’s said to be the burial spot for the beloved Apostle John. Many that travel to Ephesus miss these amazing ruins, as they are located within Selcuk. We strolled over from the Hotel Nazar one evening before they closed. There were only a handful of visitors.

Meryem ana, Virgin Mary, is beloved in Turkey. This is said to be her final home and that she came to the area with St. John. I’m not certain any of that is true, but there is a feeling of peace and miracles within these walls. The house is on a hill away from Ephesus. It was important to me to spend time there, so we had Tolga our guide drop us off for a visit. As you enter the area the kiosks lining the walkway sell religious icons, spices, and fabrics.

This is a carving of Wisdom from the wall at the Celsus Library. The library was built during the Roman era of Ephesus and was built to honor the Roman Senator Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, who was buried underneath. It was finished in 135 A.D.

Nike is the Greek Goddess of Victory. She is known as Victoria in the language of Roman gods and goddesses. In her left hand is the wreath of glory. Nike flies around battlefields bringing victory to those who are deserving.

These are the municipal bathrooms in Ephesus. The seats were made of marble and situated over a series of deep troughs. A trough of clean water ran by your feet so you could dampen a sponge on the end of a stick to clean yourself after using the toilet. A small orchestra often played nearby to mask the sounds.

This cat seemed to be just as popular with photographers the day we visited as any of the ruins.